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| Author | : Frank Lee Bub |
| Publisher | : |
| Total Pages | : 130 |
| Release | : 1974 |
| Genre | : Kinematics |
| ISBN | : |
The experiment was designed to measure surface profiles and water velocities in the breaker zone and compare the results with present theory. As a secondary objective the accuracy and usefulness of capacitance wave gages and electromagnetic flow meters in the surf environment were evaluated.
| Author | : Alfred James Olsen |
| Publisher | : |
| Total Pages | : 164 |
| Release | : 1977 |
| Genre | : Kinematics |
| ISBN | : |
Simultaneous measurements of sea surface elevation and onshore and alongshore water particle velocities were measured at three locations within the surf zone using two capacitance type penetrating wave staffs and three two-component electromagnetic flow meters. The probability density functions, pdf, for the sea surface elevation were always highly positively skewed, whereas the pdf's for the velocities were both negatively and positively skewed. Mean values of the onshore and alongshore components of flow reflected the influence of a rip current frequently observed just south of the instrument locations. Strong harmonics in the spectra of sea surface fluctuations and particle velocities infer nonlinear conditions. Coherence values between waves and onshore flow were high, ranging above 0.9. The coherence between waves and onshore flow was used to separate the turbulence and wave-induced velocity components. Over the range of collapsing to spilling breakers a reasonable value for the ratio of turbulent to wave-induced velocity was determined to be approximately 0.75. Saturation regions were found in the wave and velocity energy-density spectra at higher frequencies as evidenced by -5 and -3 slopes, respectively. (Author).
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| Total Pages | : |
| Release | : 1974 |
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| Author | : Nels John Sultan |
| Publisher | : |
| Total Pages | : 270 |
| Release | : 1995 |
| Genre | : |
| ISBN | : |
| Author | : J. van Heteren |
| Publisher | : |
| Total Pages | : 376 |
| Release | : 1985 |
| Genre | : Coast changes |
| ISBN | : |
| Author | : Victor Sandiford Hultstrand |
| Publisher | : |
| Total Pages | : 146 |
| Release | : 1977 |
| Genre | : Kinematics |
| ISBN | : |
Measurements were made of the water level fluctuations and horizontal water particle velocities in breaking waves. The breaking waves were identified and classified. The mean value of the height of breaking to depth of breaking was calculated and found to be 0.86 for a composite of the waves measured; the mean ratio values for collapsing, plunging and spilling were 0.84, 0.87 and 0.90, respectively. Probability distributions were plotted for wave heights and horizontal velocities and qualitatively compared with Rayleigh distributions; the wave distributions fit well but velocity did not. The spectra of wave profile and horizontal velocity were calculated and indicated a narrow banded data set. The coherence values between horizontal water particle velocities and wave profile were generally high, indicating that the horizontal particle velocities measured were highly wave-induced. The phase shift at the peak energy frequency was about 40 deg which suggested the presence of reflected waves. (Author).
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| Total Pages | : |
| Release | : 1977 |
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| Author | : Rafael Steer |
| Publisher | : |
| Total Pages | : 124 |
| Release | : 1972 |
| Genre | : Hydrodynamics |
| ISBN | : |
The objective of this research was to make preliminary studies on the kinematics of the water particle motion within the surf zone and within breaking waves. Simultaneous measurements were made of the instantaneous sea surface elevation and of horizontal and vertical particle velocities at different elevations in the same column of water in the surf zone, and of the offshore sea surface elevation. The probability density functions and spectra of the wave and particle velocity measurements were determined.
| Author | : Edward B. Thornton |
| Publisher | : |
| Total Pages | : 56 |
| Release | : 1973 |
| Genre | : Hydrodynamics |
| ISBN | : |
Simultaneous measurements of waves, and vertical and horizontal water particle velocities were made at the breaker-line within the surf zone using a capacitance type penetrating wave staff, a pressure wave gauge, and an electromagnetic current meter. Wave measurements were also made at seaward and shoreward locations. The wave energy-density spectral components were converted to velocity spectral components using linear wave theory. These computed values compared well qualitatively with the measured velocity spectra. Quantitatively, the results showed that linear theory underpredicted wave-induced horizontal velocity spectral components by about 50 percent at the frequency of peak energy. Probability density functions were computed and compared to Gaussian and Gram-Charlier distributions using the chi-square goodness-of-fit test. The Gram-Charlier distribution qualitatively gave the better fit to the data. (Modified author abstract).
| Author | : Roxanne J. Carini |
| Publisher | : |
| Total Pages | : 106 |
| Release | : 2019 |
| Genre | : |
| ISBN | : |
