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Ocean Wave Climate

Ocean Wave Climate
Author: M. D. Earle
Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media
Total Pages: 367
Release: 2013-03-08
Genre: Science
ISBN: 1468433997

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Waves critically affect man in coastal regions, including the open coasts and adjacent continental shelves. Preventing beach erosion, designing and building structures, designing and operating ships, providing marine forecasts, and coastal planning are but a few examples of projects for which extensive information about wave conditions is critical. Scientific studies, especially those in volving coastal processes and the development of better wave prediction models, also require wave condition information. How ever, wave conditions along and off the coasts of the United States have not been adequately determined. The main categories of available wave data are visual estimates of wave conditions made from ships at sea, scientific measurements of waves made for short time periods at specific locations, and a small number of long-term measurements made from piers or offshore platforms. With these considerations in mind, the National Ocean Survey of the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration sponsored the Ocean Wave Climate Symposium at Herndon, Virginia, July 12-14, 1977. This volume contains papers presented at this symposium. A goal of the symposium was to establish the foundations for a com prehensive and far-sighted wave measurement and analysis program to fully describe the coastal wave climate of the United States. Emphasis was placed on ocean engineering and scientific uses of wave data, existing wave monitoring programs, and modern measure ment techniques which may provide currently needed data.


The Encyclopedia of Climatology

The Encyclopedia of Climatology
Author: J.E. Oliver
Publisher: Springer
Total Pages: 1028
Release: 1987
Genre: Reference
ISBN:

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Today's greater public awareness of how climate affects our quality of life and environment has created an increasing demand for climatological information. Now this information is available in one convenient, accessible source, The Encyclopedia of Climatology. This comprehensive volume covers all the main subfields of climatology, supplies data on climates in major continental areas and explains what is known about the causes of climatic processes and changes. Contents include articles on bioclimatology, El Niño, climatic models, world regional climates, civilization and climate, climatic variations and the greenhouse effect.


Sandy Beach Morphodynamics

Sandy Beach Morphodynamics
Author: Derek Jackson
Publisher: Elsevier
Total Pages: 814
Release: 2020-06-03
Genre: Science
ISBN: 0081029276

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Sandy beaches represent some of the most dynamic environments on Earth and examining their morphodynamic behaviour over different temporal and spatial scales is challenging, relying on multidisciplinary approaches and techniques. Sandy Beach Morphodynamics brings together the latest research on beach systems and their morphodynamics and the ways in which they are studied in 29 chapters that review the full spectrum of beach morphodynamics. The chapters are written by leading experts in the field and provide introductory level understanding of physical processes and resulting landforms, along with more advanced discussions. Includes chapters that are written by the world's leading experts, including the latest up-to-date thinking on a variety of subject areas Covers state-of-the-art techniques, bringing the reader the latest technologies/methods being used to understand beach systems Presents a clear-and-concise description of processes and techniques that enables a clear understanding of coastal processes


Ocean Wave Modeling

Ocean Wave Modeling
Author: The SWAMP Group
Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media
Total Pages: 248
Release: 2013-11-22
Genre: Science
ISBN: 1475760558

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Early in 1979, a group of wave researchers proposed a wave model inter comparison study to clarify the interrelations existing among the various wave models which have been developed in past years for real-time wave forecasting, wave statistics compilations, or hindcast case studies. The idea was immediately welcomed by the wave modeling community, and, finally, nine wave modeling groups from the United States, Japan, and Europe participated in the exercise. The principal results of this work are presented here jointly by the Sea Wave Modeling Project (swAMP) Group (the members of which are listed in Appendix A). Descriptions of the models used in the study are given in Part II of this volume. A more complete documentation of the entire set of numerical experiments is given in Part 2 of the Sea Wave Modeling Project (SWAMP group, 1982). The main purpose of the intercomparison study was to test our present understanding of the physics of . wind-generated surface waves from the viewpoint of wave modeling. Specifically, we wished to clarify the basic interdependence between understanding the physics of surface waves, repre senting the physics numerically, and predicting quantitatively the detailed space-time evolution of a two-dimensional surface wave spectrum for a given wind field. It was not our intent to carry out a model competition. In this sense there were no winners or losers: all models could claim specific strong points, and all displayed weaknesses in some areas.


Extreme Ocean Waves

Extreme Ocean Waves
Author: Efim Pelinovsky
Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media
Total Pages: 200
Release: 2008-06-27
Genre: Science
ISBN: 1402083149

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Extreme, freak or rogue waves are produced by a number of physical mechanisms that focus the water-wave energy into a small area, due to wave instability, chaotic behaviour, dispersion (frequency modulation), refraction (presence of variable currents or bottom topography), soliton interactions, etc. During the past thirty years a number of physical models of the rogue wave phenomenon have been intensively developed. Numerous experimental, statistical and theoretical investigations are intended to understand the physics of the huge wave formation, its relation to the environmental conditions and to provide a freak wave design for engineering purposes. The book details the vast progress that has been achieved in the understanding of the physical mechanisms of rogue wave phenomenon in recent years. The selected articles address such issues as the formation of freak waves due to modulation instability of nonlinear wave field, physical and statistical properties of rogue wave generation in deep water and in shallow water, various models of nonlinear water waves, special analysis of nonlinear resonances between water waves and the relation between observations and freak wave theories. The book is written for specialists in the fields of fluid mechanics, applied mathematics, nonlinear physics, physical oceanography and geophysics, and for students learning these subjects.


Ocean Wave Climate

Ocean Wave Climate
Author: Marshall D. Earle
Publisher:
Total Pages: 367
Release: 1979
Genre:
ISBN:

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The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind

The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind
Author: Peter Janssen
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Total Pages: 310
Release: 2004-10-28
Genre: Science
ISBN: 0521465400

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This book was published in 2004. The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind describes in detail the two-way interaction between wind and ocean waves and shows how ocean waves affect weather forecasting on timescales of 5 to 90 days. Winds generate ocean waves, but at the same time airflow is modified due to the loss of energy and momentum to the waves; thus, momentum loss from the atmosphere to the ocean depends on the state of the waves. This volume discusses ocean wave evolution according to the energy balance equation. An extensive overview of nonlinear transfer is given, and as a by-product the role of four-wave interactions in the generation of extreme events, such as freak waves, is discussed. Effects on ocean circulation are described. Coupled ocean-wave, atmosphere modelling gives improved weather and wave forecasts. This volume will interest ocean wave modellers, physicists and applied mathematicians, and engineers interested in shipping and coastal protection.


Atlas of the Oceans

Atlas of the Oceans
Author: I. R. Young
Publisher: Pergamon
Total Pages: 274
Release: 1996
Genre: Nature
ISBN:

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This volume provides global estimates of wind and wave conditions and is based on data from the GEOSAT satellite. Parameters such as monthly values of wind speed and wave heights are presented as contour fields in global and regional charts. Variations in wind and wave parameters are also shown along common shipping routes and lines of latitude and longitude. The Atlas includes a useful reference text, providing an introduction to global meteorology and the processes responsible for the generation of ocean waves. In addition, information relating to the GEOSAT mission, data preparation and validation, and wind/wave statistics provide a full summary of the background to this major new publication. Global estimates of wind and wave conditions are required for activities such as engineering design, oceanographic and meteorological studies, ship routing and recreational activities. This publication will appeal to a wide range of readers from scientists and engineers, educators and students, to readers in shipping companies and navies.A CD-ROM based on this material, providing searchable text is also available.This CD-ROM is based on material presented in the book version of Atlas of the Oceans: Wind and Wave Climate . The CD-ROM provides searchable text-based information on global wind and wave regimes, including an introduction to global meteorology and ocean wind waves, and preparation of data gathered from the GEOSAT satellite. An extensive bibliography of over 500 abstracts from the scientific literature is included. The database of wind and wave parameters can be interactively accessed to produce contour charts with global and regional coverage. Of considerable importance to anyone interested in wind and waves statistics is the underlying GEOSAT data. The raw GEOSAT data has been processed to eliminate errors and to calibrate measurements with in situ readings. The Atlas of the Oceans: Wind and Wave Climate therefore provides a ready-to-use database on wind and wave parameters. Additional features included on the CD-ROM are: Text and illustrations - Hyperlinking allows quick and easy-access to related information, such as abstracts or illustrations - Full text and index searching - Additional bibliography of over 500 abstracts related to wind and waves - Animation of selected line drawings - Additional images - Videos of Beaufort Scale Contour charts - User can select region, month and parameter for display of charts - Charts can be overlaid with wind direction and/or grids of latitude and longitude - Options to set chart colours and degree of data smoothing Database - Underlying data can be selected and accessed - Conversion between units of measurement available Path function - Enables user to input and label path of interest (eg. ship route) - Provides plotting facilities - Calculates distance using Great Circle Path Bookmark function - Allows selection and export of user-defined text, illustrations, charts, and data to assist with report writing or in lecture preparation About the Atlas Global and regional estimates of wind and wave conditions are required for a large range of activities such as engineering design, oceanographic and meteorological studies, for ship routing and for recreational purposes. The Atlas of the Oceans: Wind and Wave Climate is based on data from the GEOSAT satellite mission. The approach of using remotely sensed data has many advantages - the data is of high spatial density and accuracy, and has a full global coverage, unlike measurements collected from ships and buoys used previously. Includes a useful reference text providing an introduction to global meteorology and the processes responsible for the generation of ocean wa


Marine Climate and Climate Change

Marine Climate and Climate Change
Author: Ralf Weisse
Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media
Total Pages: 247
Release: 2010-01-08
Genre: Science
ISBN: 3540684913

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Marine environmental conditions such as storms, storm surges and wave heights are directly experienced by, for example, off-shore operations or coastal populations. The authors review and bring together the state-of-the-art and present day knowledge about historical changes, recent trends and concepts on how marine environmental conditions may change in the future as well as discuss models and data problems.


Extreme Ocean Waves

Extreme Ocean Waves
Author: Efim Pelinovsky
Publisher: Springer
Total Pages: 242
Release: 2015-09-02
Genre: Science
ISBN: 3319215752

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This revised and updated second edition details the vast progress that has been achieved in the understanding of the physical mechanisms of rogue wave phenomenon in recent years. The selected articles address such issues as the formation of rogue waves due to modulational instability of nonlinear wave field, physical and statistical properties of extreme ocean wave generation in deep water as well as in shallow water, various models of nonlinear water waves, special analysis of nonlinear resonances between water waves and the relation between in situ observations, experimental data and rogue wave theories. In addition, recent results on tsunami waves due to subaerial landslides are presented. This book is written for specialists in the fields of fluid mechanics, applied mathematics, nonlinear physics, physical oceanography and geophysics, and for students learning these subjects.