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Kinematics of Water Particle Motion Within the Surf Zone

Kinematics of Water Particle Motion Within the Surf Zone
Author: Rafael Steer
Publisher:
Total Pages: 124
Release: 1972
Genre: Hydrodynamics
ISBN:

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The objective of this research was to make preliminary studies on the kinematics of the water particle motion within the surf zone and within breaking waves. Simultaneous measurements were made of the instantaneous sea surface elevation and of horizontal and vertical particle velocities at different elevations in the same column of water in the surf zone, and of the offshore sea surface elevation. The probability density functions and spectra of the wave and particle velocity measurements were determined.


The Kinematics of Breaking Waves in the Surf Zone

The Kinematics of Breaking Waves in the Surf Zone
Author: Alfred James Olsen
Publisher:
Total Pages: 164
Release: 1977
Genre: Kinematics
ISBN:

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Simultaneous measurements of sea surface elevation and onshore and alongshore water particle velocities were measured at three locations within the surf zone using two capacitance type penetrating wave staffs and three two-component electromagnetic flow meters. The probability density functions, pdf, for the sea surface elevation were always highly positively skewed, whereas the pdf's for the velocities were both negatively and positively skewed. Mean values of the onshore and alongshore components of flow reflected the influence of a rip current frequently observed just south of the instrument locations. Strong harmonics in the spectra of sea surface fluctuations and particle velocities infer nonlinear conditions. Coherence values between waves and onshore flow were high, ranging above 0.9. The coherence between waves and onshore flow was used to separate the turbulence and wave-induced velocity components. Over the range of collapsing to spilling breakers a reasonable value for the ratio of turbulent to wave-induced velocity was determined to be approximately 0.75. Saturation regions were found in the wave and velocity energy-density spectra at higher frequencies as evidenced by -5 and -3 slopes, respectively. (Author).


Surf Zone Wave Kinematics

Surf Zone Wave Kinematics
Author: Frank Lee Bub
Publisher:
Total Pages: 130
Release: 1974
Genre: Kinematics
ISBN:

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The experiment was designed to measure surface profiles and water velocities in the breaker zone and compare the results with present theory. As a secondary objective the accuracy and usefulness of capacitance wave gages and electromagnetic flow meters in the surf environment were evaluated.


The Kinematics of Water Particle Velocities of Breaking Waves Within the Surf Zone

The Kinematics of Water Particle Velocities of Breaking Waves Within the Surf Zone
Author: Edward B. Thornton
Publisher:
Total Pages: 56
Release: 1973
Genre: Hydrodynamics
ISBN:

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Simultaneous measurements of waves, and vertical and horizontal water particle velocities were made at the breaker-line within the surf zone using a capacitance type penetrating wave staff, a pressure wave gauge, and an electromagnetic current meter. Wave measurements were also made at seaward and shoreward locations. The wave energy-density spectral components were converted to velocity spectral components using linear wave theory. These computed values compared well qualitatively with the measured velocity spectra. Quantitatively, the results showed that linear theory underpredicted wave-induced horizontal velocity spectral components by about 50 percent at the frequency of peak energy. Probability density functions were computed and compared to Gaussian and Gram-Charlier distributions using the chi-square goodness-of-fit test. The Gram-Charlier distribution qualitatively gave the better fit to the data. (Modified author abstract).


Masters Theses in the Pure and Applied Sciences

Masters Theses in the Pure and Applied Sciences
Author: Wade H. Shafer
Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media
Total Pages: 307
Release: 2013-11-21
Genre: Science
ISBN: 1475757794

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Masters Theses in the Pure and Applied Sciences was first conceived, published, and dis· seminated by the Center for Information and Numerical Data Analysis and Synthesis (CINDAS) *at Purdue University in 1957, starting its coverage of theses with the academic year 1955. Beginning with Volume 13, the printing and dissemination phases of the ac· tivity were transferred to University Microfilms/Xerox of Ann Arbor, Michigan, with the thought that such an arrangement would be more beneficial to the academic and general scientific and technical community. After five years of this joint undertaking we had concluded that it was in the interest of all concerned if the printing and distribution of the volume were handled by an international publishing house to assure improved service and broader dissemination. Hence, starting with Volume 18, Masters Theses in the Pure and Applied Sciences has been disseminated on a worldwide basis by Plenum Publishing Corporation of New York, and in the same year the coverage was broadened to include Canadian universities. All back issues can also be ordered from Plenum. We have reported in Volume 20 (thesis year 1975) a total of 10,374 theses titles from 28 Canadian and 239 United States universities. We are sure that this broader base for theses titles reported will greatly enhance the value of this important annual reference work. The organization of Volume 20 is identical to that of past years. It consists of theses titles arranged by discipline and by university within each discipline.


Kinematics of Surf Zone Breaking Waves

Kinematics of Surf Zone Breaking Waves
Author: James Joseph Galvin
Publisher:
Total Pages: 208
Release: 1975
Genre: Ocean waves
ISBN:

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Simultaneous measurements of water surface fluctuations and horizontal water particle velocities in a line perpendicular to the direction of wave approach extending across the surf zone were taken in varying surf conditions at two locations. The spectral velocities calculated using linear theory as a transfer function underestimated measured values by 79-86% at the peak of the spectrum. The coherence values were generally low indicating non-linear and turbulent conditions. Strong harmonics in the spectra of the waves and water particle velocities further suggest a non-linear system. The theoretical phases computed using linear theory did not accurately predict the observed phases. In general breaking waves can be characterized as a strongly non-linear wave phenomenon. Measured frequency distributions were compared with both Gaussian and Gram-Charlier distributions by using the chi-square goodness-of-fit test. Qualitatively, the Gram-Charlier distribution gave the better fit to the flow velocity data.


Kinematics of Breaking Waves in the Surf Zone

Kinematics of Breaking Waves in the Surf Zone
Author: Victor Sandiford Hultstrand
Publisher:
Total Pages: 146
Release: 1977
Genre: Kinematics
ISBN:

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Measurements were made of the water level fluctuations and horizontal water particle velocities in breaking waves. The breaking waves were identified and classified. The mean value of the height of breaking to depth of breaking was calculated and found to be 0.86 for a composite of the waves measured; the mean ratio values for collapsing, plunging and spilling were 0.84, 0.87 and 0.90, respectively. Probability distributions were plotted for wave heights and horizontal velocities and qualitatively compared with Rayleigh distributions; the wave distributions fit well but velocity did not. The spectra of wave profile and horizontal velocity were calculated and indicated a narrow banded data set. The coherence values between horizontal water particle velocities and wave profile were generally high, indicating that the horizontal particle velocities measured were highly wave-induced. The phase shift at the peak energy frequency was about 40 deg which suggested the presence of reflected waves. (Author).