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Cross Shore Sediment Transport and Beach Profile Change

Cross Shore Sediment Transport and Beach Profile Change
Author: Lauren Schmied
Publisher: ProQuest
Total Pages:
Release: 2006
Genre: Beach erosion
ISBN: 9780542817113

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The investigation of cross-shore sediment transport is complex due to the variability of factors contributing to sediment motion. It has been an increasingly important topic as coastlines around the world continue to change. The knowledge of cross-shore sediment transport is important to be able to predict shoreline change. In this study, the objective was to develop a numerical model that could robustly predict beach profile change under varying conditions. The model contains a new formulation for calculating bedload transport. Two laboratory experiments were conducted with the goal of reproducing on a small scale, erosive and accretive events similar to those found in nature. These experimental results as well as results obtained in a large scale laboratory experiment, were used to test the validity of the new transport model. One additional experiment was conducted to analyze the temporal and spatial variability of suspension events under breaking waves.


Encyclopedia of Coastal Science

Encyclopedia of Coastal Science
Author: M. Schwartz
Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media
Total Pages: 1243
Release: 2006-11-08
Genre: Science
ISBN: 1402038801

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This new Encyclopedia of Coastal Science stands as the latest authoritative source in the field of coastal studies, making it the standard reference work for specialists and the interested lay person. Unique in its interdisciplinary approach. This Encyclopedia features contributions by 245 well-known international specialists in their respective fields and is abundantly illustrated with line-drawings and photographs. Not only does this volume offer an extensive number of entries, it also includes various appendices, an illustrated glossary of coastal morphology and extensive bibliographic listings.


Size-selective Sediment Transport and Cross-shore Profile Evolution in the Nearshore Zone

Size-selective Sediment Transport and Cross-shore Profile Evolution in the Nearshore Zone
Author: Chatchawin Srisuwan
Publisher:
Total Pages:
Release: 2012
Genre: Beach erosion
ISBN:

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Cross-shore bathymetric evolution in the nearshore zone often leads to threatening consequences such as beach erosion and shoreline retreat that concern the coastal community. A new, comprehensive cross-shore morphodynamic model was developed that can be used to describe and predict these phenomena. The study included both physical and numerical models that were designed to focus on the influence of sediment size characteristics on the cross-shore sediment transport process. For a profile equilibrium timescale, three types of beach profiles with different sediment mixtures were simulated in a small-scale, random-wave flume laboratory using erosive, storm, and accretive wave conditions. Dynamic relationships between the sediment grain sorting and beach profile changes were found to be evident as size-graded sediment fractions tended to relocate to different energetic zones along the cross-shore profiles. Existing phase-averaged wave and circulation models were utilized together with several new intra-wave modules for predicting important hydrodynamic parameters that were validated using the experimental data. A novel, multi-size sediment transport model was formulated to compute individual transport rates of size-graded sediment fractions while accounting for their interaction and non-linear size dependencies. The model was coupled with a new grain sorting model that resolves cross-shore grain sorting and vertical grain lamination. Compared to a traditional modeling approach, the new comprehensive model proved to offer superior modeling accuracy for both profile evolution and sediment grain size change. The use of the model is most advantageous for a condition with intensive grain sorting, a common scenario on a natural beach profile. Equilibrium beach profile is also better simulated by the model as size-graded fractions are predicted to relocate to different zones where they could withstand local hydrodynamics. Other new components that also help improve the modeling capability include the terms for wave-breaking and bed-slope effects, wave-crest sediment flux, and acceleration-induced bottom-shear stress. Besides superior profile modeling accuracy, sediment size characteristics and their spatial and temporal variations are also a useful set of information provided by the new model.


Sandy Beach Morphodynamics

Sandy Beach Morphodynamics
Author: Derek Jackson
Publisher: Elsevier
Total Pages: 814
Release: 2020-06-03
Genre: Science
ISBN: 0081029276

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Sandy beaches represent some of the most dynamic environments on Earth and examining their morphodynamic behaviour over different temporal and spatial scales is challenging, relying on multidisciplinary approaches and techniques. Sandy Beach Morphodynamics brings together the latest research on beach systems and their morphodynamics and the ways in which they are studied in 29 chapters that review the full spectrum of beach morphodynamics. The chapters are written by leading experts in the field and provide introductory level understanding of physical processes and resulting landforms, along with more advanced discussions. Includes chapters that are written by the world's leading experts, including the latest up-to-date thinking on a variety of subject areas Covers state-of-the-art techniques, bringing the reader the latest technologies/methods being used to understand beach systems Presents a clear-and-concise description of processes and techniques that enables a clear understanding of coastal processes


A Unified Sediment Transport Formulation for Coastal Inlet Application

A Unified Sediment Transport Formulation for Coastal Inlet Application
Author: Benoît Camenen
Publisher:
Total Pages: 252
Release: 2007
Genre: Inlets
ISBN:

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The Coastal Inlets Research Program (CIRP) is developing predictive numerical models for simulating the waves, currents, sediment transport, and morphology change at and around coastal inlets. Water motion at a coastal inlet is a combination of quasi-steady currents such as river flow, tidal current, wind-generated current, and seiching, and of oscillatory flows generated by surface waves. Waves can also create quasi-steady currents, and the waves can be breaking or non-breaking, greatly changing potential for sediment transport. These flows act in arbitrary combinations with different magnitudes and directions to mobilize and transport sediment. Reliable prediction of morphology change requires accurate predictive formulas for sediment transport rates that smoothly match in the various regimes of water motion. This report describes results of a research effort conducted to develop unified sediment transport rate predictive formulas for application in the coastal inlet environment. The formulas were calibrated with a wide range of available measurements compiled from the laboratory and field and then implemented in the CIRP's Coastal Modeling System. Emphasis of the study was on reliable predictions over a wide range of input conditions. All relevant physical processes were incorporated to obtain greatest generality, including: (1) bed load and suspended load, (2) waves and currents, (3) breaking and non-breaking waves, (4) bottom slope, (5) initiation of motion, (6) asymmetric wave velocity, and (7) arbitrary angle between waves and current. A large database on sediment transport measurements made in the laboratory and the field was compiled to test different aspects of the formulation over the widest possible range of conditions. Other phenomena or mechanisms may also be of importance, such as the phase lag between water and sediment motion or the influence of bed forms. Modifications to the general formulation are derived to take these phenomena into account. The.


Mechanics Of Coastal Sediment Transport

Mechanics Of Coastal Sediment Transport
Author: Jorgen Fredsoe
Publisher: World Scientific Publishing Company
Total Pages: 390
Release: 1992-11-02
Genre: Technology & Engineering
ISBN: 9814365688

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This book treats the subject of sediment transport in the marine environment, covering transport of noncohesive sediment by waves and currents in- and outside the surf zone. It can be read independently, but a background in hydraulics and basic wave mechanics is required.The primary aim of the book is to describe the physical processes of sediment transport and how to represent them in mathematical models. The book can be divided in two main parts; in the first, the relevant hydrodynamic theory is described. This part contains a review of elementary theory for water waves, chapters on the turbulent wave boundary layer and the turbulent interaction between waves and currents, and finally, surf zone hydrodynamics and wave driven currents.The second part covers sediment transport and morphological development.The part on sediment transport introduces the basic concepts (critical bed shear stress, bed load, suspended load and sheet layer, near-bed concentration, effect of sloping bed); it treats suspended sediment in waves and current and in the surf zone, and current and wave-generated bed forms. Finally, the modelling of cross-shore and long-shore sediment transport is described together with the development of coastal profiles and coastlines.


Sediment Transport and Morphodynamics Modelling for Coasts and Shallow Environments

Sediment Transport and Morphodynamics Modelling for Coasts and Shallow Environments
Author: Vanesa Magar
Publisher: CRC Press
Total Pages: 185
Release: 2020-03-09
Genre: Science
ISBN: 0429531591

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This reference for engineers, and graduate students covers sediment transport and morphodynamics modelling in nearshore environments. It presents the fundamentals required for understanding the physics and for setting up numerical models. This book covers hydrodynamics of estuarine and coastal environments, properties of seafloor and estuarine composition, and hydroenvironmental interactions; emphasising the inter-relations of small- and large-scale processes, and short- and large-evolution timescales. The focus is, principally, on the application of shallow-water theory, but some surface wave models, and coupling of shallow-water models with surface waves is also discussed to some extent. The guidance on running regional models and the case studies presented are directed to managed realignment, coastal protection, climate change impacts, and offshore renewables. Key features: Gives a balanced review of this rich interdisciplinary area Bridges practical engineering and research Offers both large- and small-scale application Suits graduate students and researchers as well as consulting engineers Vanesa Magar is a senior researcher and associate professor at the Centro de Investigación Científica y de Educación Superior de Ensenada (CICESE) in Baja California, Mexico. She was formerly a researcher and then a lecturer at Plymouth University, UK.