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Crossings in Text and Textile

Crossings in Text and Textile
Author: Katherine Joslin
Publisher: University of New Hampshire Press
Total Pages: 329
Release: 2015-01-06
Genre: Literary Criticism
ISBN: 1611686423

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Crossings in Text and Textile explores the diverse range of transatlantic representations of clothing in nineteenth- and early twentieth-century literature. This collection of essays demonstrates that fashion history and literary history, when examined together, prompt fresh understandings of the complexities of race, class, and sexual identity. By bridging material culture and discourse, Crossings establishes the significance of fashionÑwhile neglecting none of its aesthetic appealÑto offer historicized readings on a variety of topics, from Jane AustenÕs nuanced display of social interactions through the economics of muslin to the 1871 Park and Boulton cross-dressing trial and Jessie FausetÕs selection of apparel to express racial power. The geographic span of textiles from different economic areas around the globe includes Asia, Africa, Europe, and North America. By making use of transatlantic texts to consider the political and social positioning of both workers and consumers, the collection further expands upon the emerging cross-disciplinary study of reading dress. A true Òstate of the fieldÓ work, Crossings in Text and Textiles charts new scholarly ground at the nexus between fashion, textiles, and literature, appealing to a broad interdisciplinary audience of scholars and students.


Fear and Clothing

Fear and Clothing
Author: Jane Custance Baker
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
Total Pages: 265
Release: 2023-01-26
Genre: Design
ISBN: 1350240338

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Through analyzing dress in detective fiction, Fear and Clothing reveals a cultural history of identity affected by the social upheaval caused by war. In-depth analysis of interwar publications by a comprehensive range of writers reveals readers' anxieties and fears about class, gender and race and how these changed over the period. Although read and written by both men and women, detective fiction was deemed at the time to be a masculine and high-status entertainment. However the literature demonstrates an admiration and acceptance of the woman's identity, performed during the Great War and continuing throughout the interwar period, as girl pal and female gentleman. In chapters that explore age, character, class, masculinity, performative womanhood and race, Jane Custance Baker exposes how dress was a status marker to both male and female readers, made anxious by social change brought about by war. Dress in detective fiction reveals a set of signs to be read, digested, and possibly employed to model the individual reader's personal dress choices. Fear and Clothing sheds new light on dress of the period, the social and cultural environment as depicted in the popular fiction genre in the early 20th century, and is of interest to researchers and scholars within dress history, literary and historical studies, as well as anyone who enjoys the history of detective fiction.


A Philosophy of Textile

A Philosophy of Textile
Author: Catherine Dormor
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
Total Pages: 172
Release: 2020-12-10
Genre: Design
ISBN: 1472587251

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Textile is at once a language, a concept and a material thing. Philosophers such as Plato, Deleuze and Derrida have notably drawn on weaving processes to illustrate their ideas, and artists such as Ann Hamilton, Louise Bourgeois and Chiharu Shiota explore matters such as the seam, the needle and thread, and the flow of viscous materials in their work. Yet thinking about textile and making textile are often treated as separate and distinct practices, rather than parallel modes. This beautifully illustrated book brings together for the first time the language and materiality of textile to develop new models of thinking, writing and making. Through the work of thinkers such as Roland Barthes, Hélène Cixous and Luce Irigaray, and international artists like Eva Hesse and Helen Chadwick, textile practitioner, theorist and writer Catherine Dormor puts forward a new philosophy of textile. Exploring the material behaviours and philosophical language of folding, shimmering, seaming, viscosity, fraying and caressing, Dormor demonstrates how textile practice and theory are intricately woven together.


Journal of the Textile Institute

Journal of the Textile Institute
Author: Textile Institute (Manchester, England)
Publisher:
Total Pages: 1486
Release: 1923
Genre: Textile fabrics
ISBN:

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List of members in v. 1-8.


Crossing Gender in Shakespeare

Crossing Gender in Shakespeare
Author: James W. Stone
Publisher: Routledge
Total Pages: 408
Release: 2010-02-25
Genre: Literary Criticism
ISBN: 1136979050

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In this book, Stone effects a return to gender, after many years of neglect by Twenty-First-Century critics, via a methodology of close reading that foregrounds moments of sexual decentering and disequilibrium within the text and in the interstices of the dialogue between Shakespeare and his critics. Issues addressed range from the cross dressing of Viola and Imogen to the cross gartering of Malvolio, the sound of "un" and the uncanny lyric narcissism of Richard II, Hamlet’s misogyny, androgyny, and the poison of marital/political "union," Othello’s fears of impotence, rumors of Antony’s emasculation versus the militant yet nurturing triumphalism of Cleopatra’s suicide, and Posthumus’s hysterical reaction to the "woman’s part" in himself and his compensatory fantasies of parthenogenesis. Stone unpacks ideologically powerful but unsustainable male claims to self-identity and sameness, set over against man’s type-gendering of women as the origin of divisive sexual difference, discord, and the dissolution of marriage. Men who blame women for the difference that divides and weakens their sense of unity and sameness to oneself are unconscious that the uncanny feminine is not outside the masculine, its reassuring canny opposite; it is inside the masculine, its uncanny difference from itself.


Women Writing Cloth

Women Writing Cloth
Author: Mary Jo Bona
Publisher: Lexington Books
Total Pages: 159
Release: 2015-12-09
Genre: Crafts & Hobbies
ISBN: 1498525865

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Women Writing Cloth: Migratory Fictions in the American Imaginary performs a ground-breaking intervention by uncovering the relationship between literary cloth-working women and migration in a range of American novels across centuries. Bona demonstrates how four authors, Nathaniel Hawthorne, Alice Walker, Sandra Cisneros, and Adria Bernardi, innovate on pre-modern stories of weaving women in order to explore the intricate connections between handwork, resourcefulness, and mobility. Refracted through the lens of women’s migratory experiences vis-à-vis cloth-working aesthetics, Women Writing Cloth examines varied aspects of sewing—embroidering, quilting, and rebozo-making—as textual signifiers of mobility and preservation. Through authorial innovation,women’s handwork constitutes a revolt against a devaluation of cultural heritage and a distrust of the self. Women Writing Cloth argues that literary, cloth-working women inspire paradigmatic shifts in social codes due to portable skills that enabled their survival in the new world. Bona paints a complex picture of women whose migratory experiences taught them how to live within a stigmatizing culture and beneath institutional powers to control their artistry. Fabric designs assume fuller multicultural meaning when textiles cross borders and tell unspeakable stories that expose constraints typifying gender, race, and heritage. The authors examined simulate the artistic creativity of cloth-work by interrogating traditional assumptions about representation, chronology, and spatial boundaries. Women Writing Cloth breaks new ground to reveal the elaborate relationship between cloth-work expertise and women’s mobility. Variations of cloth-working women showcase a relationship between subversive artistry and institutional oppressions that compel strategies of resistance, enable survival, and, inspired by migration, construct inventive fabric creations. Women Writing Cloth engages the activity of cloth work as a means of reclamation and subversive expression represented in American literature.


Anglo-Saxon Micro-Texts

Anglo-Saxon Micro-Texts
Author: Ursula Lenker
Publisher: Walter de Gruyter GmbH & Co KG
Total Pages: 385
Release: 2019-12-02
Genre: Literary Criticism
ISBN: 3110630966

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In this volume, scholars from different disciplines – Old English and Anglo-Latin literature and linguistics, palaeography, history, runology, numismatics and archaeology – explore what are here called ‘micro-texts’, i.e. very short pieces of writing constituting independent, self-contained texts. For the first time, these micro-texts are here studied in their forms and communicative functions, their pragmatics and performativity.


Sisters Crossing Boundaries

Sisters Crossing Boundaries
Author: Katharina Stornig
Publisher: Vandenhoeck & Ruprecht
Total Pages: 418
Release: 2013-10-02
Genre: Religion
ISBN: 364710129X

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The last third of the 19th century witnessed a considerable increase in the active participation of women in the various Christian missions. Katharina Stornig focusses onthe Catholic case, and particularly explores the activities and experiences of German missionary nuns, the so-called Servants of the Holy Spirit,in colonial Togo and New Guinea in the late 19th and first half of the 20th centuries. Introducing the nuns' ambiguous roles as travelers, evangelists, believers, domestic workers, farmers, teachers, and nurses, Stornig highlights the ways in which these women shaped and were shaped by the missionary encounter and how they affected colonial societies more generally. Privileging the sources produced by nuns (i.e. letters, chronicles and reports) and emphasizing their activities, Sisters Crossing Boundaries profoundly challenges the frequent depiction of women and particularly nuns as the largely passive observers of the missionizing and colonizing activities of men. Stornig does not stop at adding women to the existing historical narrative of mission in Togo and New Guinea, but presents the hopes and strategies that German nuns related to the imagination and practice of empire. She also discusses the effects of boundary-crossing, both real and imagined, in the context of religion, gender and race.


Hmong Story Cloths

Hmong Story Cloths
Author: Linda Gerdner
Publisher: Schiffer Craft
Total Pages: 0
Release: 2015
Genre: Crafts & Hobbies
ISBN: 9780764348594

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Hmong story cloths provide a visual documentation of the historical and cultural legacy of the Hmong people from the country of Laos. The Hmong first began making the story cloths during their time in refugee camps, and featured here are 48 vibrant story cloths that provide a comprehensive look at their lives and culture. The creation of a story cloth begins with the selection of fabric and images outlined onto the fabric. Long satin stitches of multi-colored threads fill in the image, while details are applied with intricate satin stitches and borders pieced together and hand-stitched. Topics include history, traditional life in Laos, Hmong New Year, folk tales, and neighboring people. The quality and diversity of content of the story cloths build upon one another to provide a holistic understanding of the Hmong culture and history. Augmented with personal stories and artifacts, this book is perfect for history buffs and textile artisans alike.


Crossing Borders Through Folklore

Crossing Borders Through Folklore
Author: Alma Jean Billingslea-Brown
Publisher: University of Missouri Press
Total Pages: 160
Release: 1999
Genre: Literary Criticism
ISBN: 0826260098

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Examining works by Toni Morrison, Paule Marshall, Faith Ringgold, and Betye Saar, this innovative book frames black women's aesthetic sensibilities across art forms. Investigating the relationship between vernacular folk culture and formal expression, this study establishes how each of the four artists engaged the identity issues of the 1960s and used folklore as a strategy for crossing borders in the works they created during the following two decades. Because of its interdisciplinary approach, this study will appeal to students and scholars in many fields, including African American literature, art history, women's studies, diaspora studies, and cultural studies.