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| Author | : Andrew Godley |
| Publisher | : |
| Total Pages | : 25 |
| Release | : 1997 |
| Genre | : Clothing trade |
| ISBN | : |
| Author | : Clare Rose |
| Publisher | : Routledge |
| Total Pages | : 278 |
| Release | : 2016-12-05 |
| Genre | : History |
| ISBN | : 1351920596 |
There has been a great deal of recent interest in masculine clothing, examining both its production and consumption, and the ways in which it was used to create individual identities and to build businesses, from 1850 onwards. Drawing upon a wide range of sources this book studies the interaction between producers and consumers at a key period in the development of the ready-made clothing industry. It also shows that many innovations in advertising clothing, usually considered to have been developed in America, had earlier British precedents. To counter the lack of documentary evidence that has hitherto hampered research into the dress practices of non-elite groups, this book utilises thousands of unpublished visual documents. These include hundreds of manufacturers' designs, which underline an unexpected degree of investment by manufacturers in boys' clothing, and which was matched by heavy investment in advertising, with thousands of images of boys' clothing for shop catalogues in the Stationers' Hall copyright archive. Another key source is the archives of Dr Barnardo's Homes. This extraordinary collection contains over 15,000 documented photographs of boys entering between 1875 and 1900, allowing us to look beyond official polarization of 'raggedness' and 'respectability' used by charities and social reformers of all stripes and to establish the clothing that was actually worn by a large sample of boys. A close analysis of 1,800 images reveals that even when families were impoverished, they strove to present their boys in ways that reflected their position in the family group and in society. By drawing on these visual sources, and linking the design and retailing of boys' clothing with social, cultural and economic issues, this book shows that an understanding of the production and consumption of the boys clothing is central to debates on the growth of the consumer society, the development of mass-market fashion, and concepts of childhood and masculinity.
| Author | : A. Godley |
| Publisher | : Springer |
| Total Pages | : 195 |
| Release | : 2001-07-18 |
| Genre | : History |
| ISBN | : 0333993861 |
How successful were the East European Jewish immigrants in London compared with the vast majority that went to New York? This critical question - one that lies at the heart of debates on Jewish modernity, ethnic and racial assimilation, and the impact of culture on entrepreneurship - is assessed systematically for the first time in this volume. Using new evidence of Jewish immigration, mobility and assimilation, Andrew Godley shows that despite similar backgrounds and opportunities, the Jews in London were far less entrepreneurial and those in New York. As the Jewish immigrants assimilated either American or British cultural values, those in New York moved en masse into self-employment, while those in London opted to remain as workers. Godley then reinterprets the broad thrust of British twentieth century economic history, emphasising how these long-standing anti-entrepreneurial and highly conservative craft cultural values among the English working classes acted as a drag on innovation, hampering industrial relations, investment and growth.
| Author | : Katrina Honeyman |
| Publisher | : Oxford University Press |
| Total Pages | : 350 |
| Release | : 2000 |
| Genre | : Business & Economics |
| ISBN | : 0199202370 |
'An impressive range of sources... a fascinating, thorough and well produced book. Well Suited's wide scope will appeal to a range of historians - those interested in costume and textiles, gender, Jewish history, economics and business as well as Leeds residents for whom, even if they were not dependent on it, the clothing industry provided a backdrop to everyday life for much of the twentieth century.' -Costume Society'This is a tale of one city, a comprehensive account of an industry extraordinarily important to the economy of Leeds for over a century. But while the book focuses on this national centre of clothing manufacture, the issues considered are anything but parochial.' -Costume Society'A most useful point of reference.' -English Historical Review'A fascinating survey... fills a major gap in the literature of economic and social history... the work will be widely welcomed by historians of all persuasions.' -Northern History'The book is attractively illustrated with maps and photographs of old Leeds. The appendix provides summary information on the histories of a considerable number of Leeds clothing firms, and will be of great assistance to future researchers... As an explanation of the changing fortunes of the Leeds clothing industry Honeyman's account is effective.' -Business History'A lively and well researched book.' - Geoffrey Owen, Financial TimesThe making of cloth as a central element within industrialization has been the subject of intense scrutiny, yet the industry that created garments from that cloth has been largely neglected. This book remedies this neglect through a study of the Leeds tailoring trade. Leeds occupies a special place in the history of the UK clothing industry: by the outbreak of the First World War it had become the nation's foremost producer of menswear, and the city remained the production and distribution centre for men's tailoring until the 1980s.
| Author | : Stella Bruzzi |
| Publisher | : Routledge |
| Total Pages | : 443 |
| Release | : 2013-12-04 |
| Genre | : Social Science |
| ISBN | : 1136474730 |
Following on from the ground-breaking collection Fashion Cultures, this second anthology, Fashion Cultures Revisited, contains 26 newly commissioned chapters exploring fashion culture from the start of the new millennium to the present day. The book is divided into six parts, each discussing different aspects of fashion culture: Shopping, spaces and globalisation Changing imagery, changing media Altered landscapes, new modes of production Icons and their legacies Contestation, compliance, feminisms Making masculinities Fashion Cultures Revisited explores every facet of contemporary fashion culture and the associated spheres of photography, magazines and television, and shopping .Consequently it is an ideal companion to those interested in fashion studies, cultural studies, art, film, fashion history, sociology and gender studies.
| Author | : S Ashdown |
| Publisher | : Elsevier |
| Total Pages | : 407 |
| Release | : 2007-04-11 |
| Genre | : Technology & Engineering |
| ISBN | : 1845692586 |
The basic concepts behind sizing systems currently used in the manufacture of ready-to-wear garments were originally developed in the 19th century. These systems are frequently based on outdated anthropometric data, they lack standard labelling, and they generally do not accommodate the wide variations of body sizes and proportions that exist in the population. However, major technological improvements have made new population data available worldwide, with the potential to affect the future of sizing in many ways. New developments in computer-aided design and sophisticated mathematical and statistical methods of categorizing different body shapes can also contribute to the development of more effective sizing systems. This important book provides a critical appreciation of the key technological and scientific developments in sizing and their application. The first chapter in the book discusses the history of sizing systems and how this has affected the mass production of ready-to-wear clothing. Chapters two and three review methods for constructing new and adapting existing sizing systems, and the standardisation of national and international sizing systems. Marketing and fit models are reviewed in chapter four whilst chapter five presents an analysis of the grading process used to create size sets. Chapters six and seven discuss fit and sizing strategies in relation to function, and the communication of sizing. Mass customization and a discussion of material properties and their affect on sizing are addressed in chapters eight and nine. Military sizing and the aesthetics of sizing are detailed in chapters ten and eleven. The final chapter reviews the impact on sizing of production systems and specifications. Written by an international team of contributors, this book is an essential reference to researchers, designers, students and manufacturers in the clothing and fashion industry. Provides a critical appreciation of key technological and scientific developments in sizing and their application Discusses how developments in sizing affect the mass production of ready to wear clothing Reviews methods of constructing new and adapting existing sizing systems
| Author | : Michael J Oliver |
| Publisher | : Routledge |
| Total Pages | : 377 |
| Release | : 2017-11-01 |
| Genre | : Business & Economics |
| ISBN | : 1351732536 |
This title was first published in 2002: There are few students of European economic history who will not have come across the writings of Derek H. Aldcroft. His contributions to the field of economic and social history are vast and distinguish him as one of the most prolific economic historians of the 20th century. This volume honours Derek's contribution to the literature of economic and social history and its contents reflect his wide-ranging interests, particularly on issues relating to transport history and the growth and structural change in economies. From transport in the Industrial Revolution to late 20th-century international financial architecture, the essays in this book, contributed by leading economic historians, are a tribute to a remarkable scholar.
| Author | : Mark Casson |
| Publisher | : Springer Science & Business Media |
| Total Pages | : 252 |
| Release | : 2012-12-06 |
| Genre | : Business & Economics |
| ISBN | : 3642572235 |
This volume is the product of the "Sixth Annual SEEP-Conference on Economic Ethics and Philosophy" on the theme of 'Cultural Factors in Economic Growth' held at Marienrode Monastry, Hildesheim, in April 1998. Our thanks go to our colleagues (including Avner Offner, whose paper could not be included here), the staff at the monastry, and Professor Peter Koslowski of the Forschungsinstitut fUr Philo sophie Hannover, and editor of this series, for contributing to a very enjoyable conference and, we hope, an interesting collection of essays. Mark Casson and Andrew Godley University of Reading, March 2000 Contents Preface . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . v Chapter 1 Cultural Factors in Economic Growth MARK CASSON AND ANDREW GODLEY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Chapter 2 Trust as a Governance Device BART NOOTEBOOM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Chapter 3 A Measure of Culture: Trust and Defection in Southern Italy FRANCESCO L. GALASSI. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Chapter 4 Entrepreneurial Minorities: A Typology WILLIAM D. RUBINSTEIN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . III Chapter 5 Cultural Determinants of Jewish Immigrant Entrepreneurship in the UK and USA and British and American Culture ANDREW GODLEY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 CONTENTS Chapter 6 Jurisprudence, Expected Value, and the Culture ofInnovation FRED V. CARSTENSEN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 Chapter 7 Constitutions, Liberties, and Growth in Pre-Modem Europe STEPHAN R. EpSTEIN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 Chapter 8 Culture and the Myth of Economic Determinism in Global History and World Politics KEN DARK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 Chapter 9 The Case for a Shared World Language ERIC L. JONES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 0 List of Authors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237 Index of Names . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
| Author | : |
| Publisher | : |
| Total Pages | : 316 |
| Release | : 1998 |
| Genre | : History, Modern |
| ISBN | : |
| Author | : Karen Tranberg Hansen |
| Publisher | : Routledge |
| Total Pages | : 273 |
| Release | : 2022-02-23 |
| Genre | : Business & Economics |
| ISBN | : 1000545024 |
Providing interdisciplinary and global perspectives, this book examines historical and contemporary changes in secondhand economies, including the emergence and specialization of secondhand venues, the materials involved, as well as the cultural significance of secondhand things and the professions associated with them. The objects in focus range from used clothing, scrap and waste materials, to antiquities and used cars, thrift stores and circular economies. Growing concerns with sustainability in the West have helped bring about the ‘rediscovery’ of practices of clothing re-use, re-purposing and re-cycling at the same time as major high-street retailers are establishing programs to return used clothing to their stores for re-sale or recycling. As the contributions to this edited volume demonstrate, recent concerns with the fast pace and adverse effects of global commodity flows have increased the scholarly attention to secondhand economies, both in terms of their history and their significance for livelihoods and sustainability. The chapters in this book were originally published as a special issue of the journal, Business History.
