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Barbarian Days

Barbarian Days
Author: William Finnegan
Publisher: Penguin
Total Pages: 466
Release: 2016-04-26
Genre: Biography & Autobiography
ISBN: 0143109391

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**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.


Cold New World

Cold New World
Author: William Finnegan
Publisher: Modern Library
Total Pages: 449
Release: 2010-09-29
Genre: Social Science
ISBN: 0307766144

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From the Pulitzer Prize–winning author of Barbarian Days, this narrative nonfiction classic documents the rising inequality and cultural alienation that presaged the crises of today. “A status report on the American Dream [that] gets its power [from] the unpredictable, rich specifics of people’s lives.”—Time “[William] Finnegan’s real achievement is to attach identities to the steady stream of faceless statistics that tell us America’s social problems are more serious than we want to believe.”—The Washington Post A fifteen-year-old drug dealer in blighted New Haven, Connecticut; a sleepy Texas town transformed by crack; Mexican American teenagers in Washington State, unable to relate to their immigrant parents and trying to find an identity in gangs; jobless young white supremacists in a downwardly mobile L.A. suburb. William Finnegan spent years embedded with families in four communities across the country to become an intimate observer of the lives he reveals in Cold New World. What emerges from these beautifully rendered portraits is a prescient and compassionate book that never loses sight of its subjects’ humanity. A NEW YORK TIMES NOTABLE BOOK • A LOS ANGELES TIMES BEST NONFICTION SELECTION Praise for Cold New World “Unlike most journalists who drop in for a quick interview and fly back out again, Finnegan spent many weeks with families in each community over a period of several years, enough time to distinguish between the kind of short-term problems that can beset anyone and the longer-term systemic poverty and social disintegration that can pound an entire generation into a groove of despair.”—Los Angeles Times Book Review “The most remarkable of William Finnegan’s many literary gifts is his compassion. Not the fact of it, which we have a right to expect from any personal reporting about the oppressed, but its coolness, its clarity, its ductile strength. . . . Finnegan writes like a dream. His prose is unfailingly lucid, graceful, and specific, his characterization effortless, and the pull of his narrative pure seduction.”—The Village Voice “Four astonishingly intimate and evocative portraits. . . . All of these stories are vividly, honestly and compassionately told. . . . While Cold New World may make us look in new ways at our young people, perhaps its real goal is to make us look at ourselves.”—The Philadelphia Inquirer


After Surfing Ocean Beach

After Surfing Ocean Beach
Author: Mary Soderstrom
Publisher: Dundurn
Total Pages: 228
Release: 2004-04-27
Genre: Fiction
ISBN: 9781550025095

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Rick doesn't have time to think. He plunges his knife into the stranger's gut, believing he is defending himself from an attacker. But Rick is wrong about the man's intentions, and as he flees the scene, the innocent man bleeds to death, leaving Rick horrified by what he has done. It is a moment of panic that changes Rick's life forever. It is also a moment that brings Rick face to face with his past, as we soon discover that the slain man was not a stranger after all.


Caught Inside

Caught Inside
Author: Daniel Duane
Publisher: Macmillan
Total Pages: 260
Release: 1997-04-10
Genre: Biography & Autobiography
ISBN: 9780865475090

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Duane's account of a year spent surfing in Santa Cruz, California. Interspersed with the narrative of days passed on the water are good-humored explanations of the physics of wave dynamics, the art of surfboard design, dexcriptions of the flora and fauna


A Complicated War

A Complicated War
Author: William Finnegan
Publisher: Univ of California Press
Total Pages: 343
Release: 2023-09-01
Genre: History
ISBN: 0520342380

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Powerful, instructive, and full of humanity, this book challenges the current understanding of the war that has turned Mozambique—a naturally rich country—into the world's poorest nation. Before going to Mozambique, William Finnegan saw the war, like so many foreign observers, through a South African lens, viewing the conflict as apartheid's "forward defense." This lens was shattered by what he witnessed and what he heard from Mozambicans, especially those who had lived with the bandidos armado, the "armed bandits" otherwise known as the Renamo rebels. The shifting, wrenching, ground-level stories that people told combine to form an account of the war more local and nuanced, more complex, more African—than anything that has been politically convenient to describe. A Complicated War combines frontline reporting, personal narrative, political analysis, and comparative scholarship to present a picture of a Mozambique harrowed by profound local conflicts—ethnic, religious, political and personal. Finnegan writes that South Africa's domination and destabilization are basic elements of Mozambique's plight, but he offers a subtle description and analysis that will allow us to see the post-apartheid region from a new, more realistic, if less comfortable, point of view.


Things I Learned at Art School

Things I Learned at Art School
Author: Megan Dunn
Publisher: Penguin Random House New Zealand Limited
Total Pages: 333
Release: 2021-08-17
Genre: Biography & Autobiography
ISBN: 0143774867

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Part memoir, part essay collection, Megan Dunn’s ingenious, moving, hilariously personal Things I Learned at Art School tells the story of her early life and coming-of-age in New Zealand in the ‘70s, ‘80s and ‘90s. From her parents’ divorce to her Smurf collection, from the mean girls at school to the mermaid movie Splash!, from her work in strip clubs and massage parlours (and one steak restaurant) to the art school of the title, this is a dazzling, killer read from a contemporary voice of comic brilliance. Chapters include: The Ballad of Western Barbie; A Comprehensive List of All the Girls Who Teased Me at Western Heights High School, What They Looked Like and Why They Did It; On Being a Redhead; Life Begins at Forty: That Time My Uncle Killed Himself; Good Girls Write Memoirs, Bad Girls Don’t Have Time; Videos I Watched with My Father; Things I Learned at Art School; CV of a Fat Waitress; Nine Months in a Massage Parlour Called Belle de Jour; Various Uses for a Low Self-esteem; Art in the Waiting Room and Submerging Artist. Praise for Tinderbox: “Tinderbox is deadpan hilarious and Megan Dunn is a comic genius.” - Susanna Andrew, Metro “Megan Dunn's wry, whip-smart memoir about Fahrenheit 451, literary ambition & the last days of Borders Bookstores is funny & insightful as hell. Like Kathy Acker meets Sue Townsend. The read of the summer! ... already one of my favourite New Zealand books.” - Hera Lindsay Bird “Witty, highly entertaining.” - Philip Matthews, Stuff "Tinderbox is such a shape-shifter, such a sui generis work, that to call it a memoir does it a disservice ... [Dunn’s] voice is hard to resist – sardonic, brazen, sagacious – recalling, in places, Nora Ephron, John Jeremiah Sullivan, and Maggie Nelson.” - James Cook, Review 31


The Encyclopedia of Surfing

The Encyclopedia of Surfing
Author: Matt Warshaw
Publisher: Houghton Mifflin Harcourt
Total Pages: 820
Release: 2005
Genre: Reference
ISBN: 9780156032513

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With 1,500 alphabetical entries and 300 illustrations, this resource is a comprehensive review of the people, places, events, equipment, vernacular, and lively history of this fascinating sport.


Let My People Go Surfing

Let My People Go Surfing
Author: Yvon Chouinard
Publisher: Penguin
Total Pages: 284
Release: 2006-09-05
Genre: Biography & Autobiography
ISBN: 1101201223

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Yvon Chouinard-legendary climber, businessman, environmentalist, and founder of Patagonia, Inc.-shares the persistence and courage that have gone into being head of one of the most respected and environmentally responsible companies on earth. From his youth as the son of a French Canadian blacksmith to the thrilling, ambitious climbing expeditions that inspired his innovative designs for the sport's equipment, Let My People Go Surfing is the story of a man who brought doing good and having grand adventures into the heart of his business life-a book that will deeply affect entrepreneurs and outdoor enthusiasts alike. A newly revised edition of Let My People Go Surfing is available now. From the Trade Paperback edition.


The Barbarian Way

The Barbarian Way
Author: Erwin Raphael McManus
Publisher: Thomas Nelson
Total Pages: 162
Release: 2005-02-08
Genre: Religion
ISBN: 1418513318

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It's time to rediscover the passionate, fearless life that Jesus called us to live. Are you ready to choose the barbarian way? In today's world, where faith often walks the line of comfort and convenience, The Barbarian Way, stands as a thunderous call to break free and experience Christianity as it was truly meant to be - wild, free, and untamed. An acclaimed author and dynamic lead pastor of Mosaic, a Los Angeles church movement, Erwin McManus challenges you to step out of the safety of the familiar, urging you to live with unbridled faith and boldness that will fulfill the deepest longing of your heart. This Christian classic opens up a new way to view your walk with Christ, encouraging you to take risks and liberate yourself from mundane existence. Join an engaged community of spiritual seekers and followers of Christ as you: Challenge yourself to live a more bold faith Satisfy the deepest cravings of your soul Discover a revolutionary way to live as a Christian Brave the unknown, armed with passion With each chapter, Erwin McManus examines Biblical figures like Abel, Enoch, Noah, Abraham, Joseph, Moses, Rahab, and Samson. Viewing their eccentric lives through a lens of vibrant faith, the book reminds us that faith is not a shield against adversity, but a call to meaningful and sometimes challenging contribution. The book aims to dismantle the belief that God's will is a haven of comfort and safety, propelling readers instead towards a life of valor, adventure, and sacrifice. Read The Barbarian Way and ignite the flame within to live out your faith with a radical, barbaric love. This is your moment, your crossroads, your destiny. Choose to live passionately, boldly, fearlessly. Choose the barbarian way!


Cocaine + Surfing

Cocaine + Surfing
Author: Chas Smith
Publisher: Rare Bird Books
Total Pages: 188
Release: 2019-12-11
Genre: Social Science
ISBN: 9781644280331

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From the author of Welcome to Paradise, Now Go To Hell, a finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for Nonfiction One of Pearl Jam's Jeff Ament's Top 10 of 2018 It's no surprise that surfers like to party. The 1960-70s image, bolstered by Tom Wolfe and Big Wednesday, was one of mild outlaws--tanned boys refusing to grow up, spending their days drinking beer and smoking joints on the beach in between mindless hours in the water. But in the 1980s, as surf brands morphed into multibillion-dollar companies, the derelict portrait began to harm business. The external surf image became Kelly Slater and Laird Hamilton, beacons of health, vitality, bravery, and clean-living. Internally, though, surfing had moved on from booze and weed to its heart's true home, its soul's twin flame: cocaine. The rise of cocaine in American popular culture as the choice of rich, white elites was matched, then quadrupled, within surf culture. The parties got wilder, the nights stretched longer, the stories became more ridiculously unbelievable. And there has been no stopping, no dip in passion. It is a forbidden love, and few, if any, outside the surf world know about this particular rhapsody. Drug use is kept very well-hidden, even from insiders, but evidence of its psychosis rears its head from time to time in the form of overdoses, bar fights, surf contests, murders, and cover-ups. Cocaine + Surfing draws back the curtain on a hopped-up, sometimes-sexy, sometimes-deadly relationship and uses cocaine as the vehicle to expose and explain the utterly absurd surf industry to outsiders.