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The Science of Ocean Waves

The Science of Ocean Waves
Author: J. B. Zirker
Publisher: JHU Press
Total Pages: 263
Release: 2013-12-18
Genre: Science
ISBN: 1421410796

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An unparalleled introduction to the amazing world of ocean waves. Outstanding Academic Title, Choice "Powerful ocean waves fascinate the public, and they have made a lot of news lately." With that indisputable observation, scientist J. B. Zirker takes off on a whirlwind tour of the world of waves—from the “ordinary” waves that constantly churn the sea to the rogues or freaks that can rise up seemingly from nowhere to heights of 20 meters or more . . . and everything in between. Addressing questions most ocean visitors have had and offering new ones for our consideration, The Science of Ocean Waves explains in accessible language how waves are formed, how they move, how they become huge and destructive, and how they're being studied now for clues that will help us plan for the future. Devoting chapters to wind, tides, currents, breakers, tsunamis, forecasting, renewable energy, and El Niño—as well as discussing the gentler properties of ocean waves which inspire us and offer opportunities for relaxation and recreation—Zirker explores the physical factors that create waves. Drawing on some of the recent storms that have devastated entire regions—such as Hurricane Katrina, the tsunami launched by the 2004 Sumatran earthquake, and the great tsunami that crushed the shore of Japan in 2011—Zirker explains the forces that cause these monster waves and reveals the toll they take on human lives. Enhanced by dozens of illustrations and a comprehensive glossary, The Science of Ocean Waves will fascinate anyone curious about the science behind the headlines. Praise for J. B. Zirker “Scientists know their stuff but are rarely good storytellers, whereas good storytellers rarely possess the necessary sweeping command of a scientific discipline. Zirker is that rare animal who can both communicate the most demanding technical detail and make it accessible.”—New Scientist


Waves in the Ocean and Atmosphere

Waves in the Ocean and Atmosphere
Author: Joseph Pedlosky
Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media
Total Pages: 259
Release: 2013-04-17
Genre: Science
ISBN: 3662051311

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A study of the fundamental theory of waves appropriate for first year graduate students in oceanography, meteorology and associated sciences. Starting with an elementary overview of the basic wave concept, specific wave phenomena are then examined, including: surface gravity waves, internal gravity waves, lee waves, waves in the presence of rotation, and geostrophic adjustment. Each wave topic is used to introduce either a new technique or concept in general wave theory. Emphasis is placed on connectivity between the various subjects and on the physical interpretation of the mathematical results. The book contains numerous exercises at the end of the respective chapters.


Ocean Waves

Ocean Waves
Author: Michel K. Ochi
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Total Pages: 332
Release: 2005-07-21
Genre: Technology & Engineering
ISBN: 9780521017671

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Waves observed in the ocean are extremely irregular and, from a physics standpoint, it seems impossible to describe this chaotic situation. Scientists can describe the situation by means of a stochastic approach. This book describes the stochastic method for ocean wave analysis. This method provides a route to predicting the characteristics of random ocean waves--information vital for the design and safe operation of ships and ocean structures. Assuming a basic knowledge of probability theory, the book begins with a chapter describing the essential elements of wind-generated random seas from the stochastic point of view. The following three chapters introduce spectral analysis techniques, probabilistic predictions of wave amplitudes, wave height and periodicity. A further four chapters discuss sea severity, extreme sea state, the directional wave energy spreading in random seas and special wave events such as wave breaking and group phenomena. Finally the stochastic properties of non-Gaussian waves are presented. Useful appendices and an extensive reference list are included. Examples of practical applications of the theories presented can be found throughout the text. This book will be suitable as a text for graduate students of naval, ocean and coastal engineering. It will also serve as a useful reference for research scientists and engineers working in this field.


Ocean Surface Waves

Ocean Surface Waves
Author: Stanislaw R. Massel
Publisher: World Scientific
Total Pages: 514
Release: 1996
Genre: Science
ISBN: 9789810221096

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This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields. It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view. The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail. The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text. An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to.


Rogue Waves in the Ocean

Rogue Waves in the Ocean
Author: Christian Kharif
Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media
Total Pages: 222
Release: 2008-12-11
Genre: Science
ISBN: 354088419X

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“It came from nowhere, snapping giant ships in two. No one believed the survivors . . . until now” —New Scientist magazine cover, June 30, 2001 Rogue waves are the focus of this book. They are among the waves naturally - served by people on the sea surface that represent an inseparable feature of the Ocean. Rogue waves appear from nowhere, cause danger, and disappear at once. They may occur on the surface of a relatively calm sea and not reach very high amplitudes, but still be fatal for ships and crew due to their unexpectedness and abnormal features. Seamen are known to be unsurpassed authors of exciting and horrifying stories about the sea and sea waves. This could explain why, despite the increasing number of documented cases, that sailors’ observations of “walls of - ter” have been considered ctitious for a while. These stories are now addressed again due to the amount of doubtless evidence of the existence of the phenomenon, but still without suf cient information to - able interested researchers and engineers to completely understand it. The billows appear suddenly, exceeding the surrounding waves by two times their size and more, and obtaining many names: abnormal, exceptional, extreme, giant, huge, s- den, episodic, freak, monster, rogue, vicious, killer, mad- or rabid-dog waves, cape rollers, holes in the sea, walls of water, three sisters, etc.


Ocean Waves and Oscillating Systems

Ocean Waves and Oscillating Systems
Author: Johannes Falnes
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Total Pages: 319
Release: 2020-05-28
Genre: Science
ISBN: 1108481663

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Understand the absorption of energy from ocean waves by means of oscillating systems with this useful new edition. Essential for engineers, researchers, and graduate students, and an indispensable tool for those who work in this field.


Wind Generated Ocean Waves

Wind Generated Ocean Waves
Author: I.R. Young
Publisher: Elsevier
Total Pages: 307
Release: 1999-03-23
Genre: Science
ISBN: 0080543804

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The goals of wind wave research are relatively well defined: to be able to predict the wind wave field and its effect on the environment. That environment could be natural (beaches, the atmosphere etc.) or imposed by human endeavour (ports, harbours, coastal settlements etc.). Although the goals are similar, the specific requirements of these various fields differ considerably. This book attempts to summarise the current state of this knowledge and to place this understanding into a common frame work. It attempts to take a balanced approach between the pragmatic engineering view of requiring a short term result and the scientific quest for detailed understanding. Thus, it attempts to provide a rigorous description of the physical processes involved as well as practical predictive tools.


Do Whales Have Belly Buttons?

Do Whales Have Belly Buttons?
Author: Melvin Berger
Publisher: Scholastic
Total Pages: 48
Release: 1999
Genre: Juvenile Nonfiction
ISBN: 9780590130813

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Provides answers to such questions about various species of whales and dolphins as "Do all whales have teeth?", "How long do most whales live?", "Why do dolphins whistle?", and "Can dolphins save humans?"


Ocean! Waves for All

Ocean! Waves for All
Author: Stacy McAnulty
Publisher: Henry Holt and Company (BYR)
Total Pages: 21
Release: 2020-05-05
Genre: Juvenile Nonfiction
ISBN: 1250788862

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From writer Stacy McAnulty and illustrator David Litchfield, Ocean! Waves for All is a light-hearted nonfiction picture book about the formation and history of the ocean, told from the perspective of the ocean itself. Dude. Ocean is incredible. Atlantic, Pacific, Artic, Indian, Southern—it's all excellent Ocean! Not part of any nation, his waves are for all. And under those waves, man, he holds so many secrets. With characteristic humor and charm, Stacy McAnulty channels the voice of Ocean in this next "autobiography" in the Our Universe series. Rich with kid-friendly facts and beautifully brought to life by David Litchfield, this is an equally charming and irresistible companion to Earth! My First 4.54 Billion Years; Sun! One in a Billion; and Moon! Earth's Best Friend.


Ocean Wave Energy Conversion

Ocean Wave Energy Conversion
Author: Aurelien Babarit
Publisher: Elsevier
Total Pages: 264
Release: 2017-11-17
Genre: Technology & Engineering
ISBN: 0081023901

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The waves that animate the surface of the oceans represent a deposit of renewable energy that for the most part is still unexploited today. This is not for lack of effort, as for more than two hundred years inventors, researchers and engineers have struggled to develop processes and systems to recover the energy of the waves. While all of these efforts have failed to converge towards a satisfactory technological solution, the result is a rich scientific and technical literature as well as extensive and varied feedback from experience. For the uninitiated, this abundance is an obstacle. In order to facilitate familiarization with the subject, we propose in this work a summary of the state of knowledge on the potential of wave energy as well as on the processes and technologies of its recovery (wave energy converters). In particular, we focus on the problem of positioning wave energy in the electricity market, the development of wave energy conversion technologies from a historical perspective, and finally the energy performance of the devices. This work is aimed at students, researchers, developers, industry professionals and decision makers who wish to acquire a global perspective and the necessary tools to understand the field. Reviews the state of knowledge and developments on wave energy recovery Presents the history of wave energy recovery Classifies the various systems for recovering this type of energy