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Fashionable Traditions

Fashionable Traditions
Author: Ayami Nakatani
Publisher: Rowman & Littlefield
Total Pages: 317
Release: 2020-01-28
Genre: Social Science
ISBN: 1498586503

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Textiles play a decisive role in history: attire not only indicates status, gender, ethnicity, and religion but illustrates how such boundaries are continuously being negotiated, shifted, and recreated. Fashionable Traditions captures the complex reality of Asian handmade textile production and consumption. From traditionalist discourse and cultural authenticity to fashion and market trends, the contributors to this collection demonstrate the multilayered influence of often contradictory forces. In-depth, ethnographic case studies reveal the entangled relationships between local artisans, external interventions, and consumers, while acknowledging the broader frameworks in which such relationships are situated. Together these stories offer a vivid account of the socio-economic, political, and cultural dynamics in various parts of Asia and emphasize that fashion is neither a Western prerogative nor do its roots reside solely in the West.


Paris Fashion

Paris Fashion
Author: Valerie Steele
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
Total Pages: 344
Release: 2017-09-21
Genre: Design
ISBN: 1474245498

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Paris has been the international capital of fashion for more than 300 years. Even before the rise of the haute couture, Parisians were notorious for their obsession with fashion, and foreigners eagerly followed their lead. From Charles Frederick Worth to Gabrielle "Coco†? Chanel, Christian Dior, and Yves Saint Laurent, fashion history is dominated by the names of Parisian couturiers. But Valerie Steele's Paris Fashion is much more than just a history of great designers. This fascinating book demonstrates that the success of Paris ultimately rests on the strength of its fashion culture – created by a host of fashion performers and spectators, including actresses, dandies, milliners, artists, and writers. First published in 1988 to great international acclaim, this pioneering book has now been completely revised and brought up to date, encompassing the rise of fashion's multiple world cities in the 21st century. Lavishly illustrated, deeply learned, and elegantly written, Valerie Steele's masterwork explores with brilliance and flair why Paris remains the capital of fashion.


The First Book of Fashion

The First Book of Fashion
Author: Ulinka Rublack
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
Total Pages: 421
Release: 2021-02-11
Genre: Art
ISBN: 1474249906

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This captivating book reproduces arguably the most extraordinary primary source documents in fashion history. Providing a revealing window onto the Renaissance, they chronicle how style-conscious accountant Matthäus Schwarz and his son Veit Konrad experienced life through clothes, and climbed the social ladder through fastidious management of self-image. These bourgeois dandies' agenda resonates as powerfully today as it did in the sixteenth century: one has to dress to impress, and dress to impress they did. The Schwarzes recorded their sartorial triumphs as well as failures in life in a series of portraits by illuminists over 60 years, which have been comprehensively reproduced in full color for the first time. These exquisite illustrations are accompanied by the Schwarzes' fashion-focussed yet at times deeply personal captions, which render the pair the world's first fashion bloggers and pioneers of everyday portraiture. The First Book of Fashion demonstrates how dress – seemingly both ephemeral and trivial – is a potent tool in the right hands. Beyond this, it colorfully recaptures the experience of Renaissance life and reveals the importance of clothing to the aesthetics and every day culture of the period. Historians Ulinka Rublack's and Maria Hayward's insightful commentaries create an unparalleled portrait of sixteenth-century dress that is both strikingly modern and thorough in its description of a true Renaissance fashionista's wardrobe. This first English translation also includes a bespoke pattern by TONY award-winning costume designer and dress historian Jenny Tiramani, from which readers can recreate one of Schwarz's most elaborate and politically significant outfits.


The Culture of Fashion

The Culture of Fashion
Author: Christopher Breward
Publisher: Manchester University Press
Total Pages: 270
Release: 1995-05-15
Genre: Art
ISBN: 9780719041259

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This illustrated survey of 600 years of fashion investigates its cultural and social meaning from medieval Europe to twentieth-century America. Breward's work provides the reader with a clear guide to the changes in style and taste and shows that clothes have always played a pivotal role in defining a sense of identity and society, especially when concerned with sexual and body politics.


Modern Fashion Traditions

Modern Fashion Traditions
Author: M. Angela Jansen
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
Total Pages: 245
Release: 2016-07-28
Genre: Design
ISBN: 1474229506

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Modern Fashion Traditions questions the dynamics of fashion systems and spaces of consumption outside the West. Too often, these fashion systems are studied as a mere and recent result of globalization and Western fashion influences, but this book draws on a wide range of non-Western case studies and analyses their similarities and differences as legitimate fashion systems, contesting Eurocentric notions of tradition and modernity, continuity versus change, and 'the West versus the Rest'. Preconceptions about non-Western fashion are challenged through diverse case studies from international scholars, including street-style identity in Bhutan, the influence of Ottoman cultural heritage on contemporary Turkish fashion design, and an investigation into the origins of the word 'fashion' in Chinese. Negotiating tradition, foreign influences and the contemporary global dominance of Western fashion cities, Modern Fashion Traditions will give readers a clearer understanding of non-Western fashion identities in the present. Accessibly written, this ground-breaking text makes an essential contribution to the study of non-Western fashion and will be an important resource for students of fashion history and theory, anthropology, and cultural studies.


Creating African Fashion Histories

Creating African Fashion Histories
Author: JoAnn McGregor
Publisher: Indiana University Press
Total Pages: 303
Release: 2022-04-05
Genre: Art
ISBN: 0253060133

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Creating African Fashion Histories examines the stark disjuncture between African self-fashioning and museum practices. Conventionally, African clothing, textiles, and body adornments were classified by museums as examples of trade goods, art, and ethnographic materials—never as "fashion." Counterposing the dynamism of African fashion with museums' historic holdings thus provides a unique way of confronting ways in which coloniality persists in knowledge and institutions today. This volume brings together an interdisciplinary group of scholars and curators to debate sources and approaches for constructing African fashion histories and to examine their potential for decolonizing museums, fashion studies, and global cultural history. The editors of this volume seek to answer questions such as: How can researchers use museum collections to reveal traces of past self-fashioning that are obscured by racialized forms of knowledge and institutional practice? How can archival, visual, oral, ethnographic, and online sources be deployed to capture the diversity of African sartorial pasts? How can scholars and curators decolonize the Eurocentric frames of thinking encapsulated in historic collections and current curricula? Can new collections of African fashion decolonize museum practice? From Moroccan fashion bloggers to upmarket Lagos designers, the voices in this ground-breaking collection reveal fascinating histories and geographies of circulation within and beyond the continent and its diasporic communities.


African Dress

African Dress
Author: Karen Tranberg Hansen
Publisher: A&C Black
Total Pages: 273
Release: 2013-08-29
Genre: Design
ISBN: 0857858203

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Dress and fashion practices in Africa and the diaspora are dynamic and diverse, whether on the street or on the fashion runway. Focusing on the dressed body as a performance site, African Dress explores how ideas and practices of dress contest or legitimize existing power structures through expressions of individual identity and the cultural and political order. Drawing on innovative, interdisciplinary research by established and up and coming scholars, the book examines real life projects and social transformations that are deeply political, revolving around individual and public goals of dignity, respect, status, and morality. With its remarkable scope, this book will attract students and scholars of fashion and dress, material culture and consumption, performance studies, and art history in relation to Africa and on a global scale.


Fashioning Africa

Fashioning Africa
Author: Jean Allman
Publisher: Indiana University Press
Total Pages: 256
Release: 2004-09-09
Genre: Art
ISBN: 0253216893

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There is a close connection between the clothes we wear and our political expression. In 'Fashioning Africa' an international group of anthropologists, historians and art historians bring rich and diverse perspectives to this fascinating topic.


Exploring Gender and Sikh Traditions

Exploring Gender and Sikh Traditions
Author: Doris R. Jakobsh
Publisher: MDPI
Total Pages: 242
Release: 2021-09-01
Genre: Science
ISBN: 3036511903

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This volume gathers scholars who focus on gender through a variety of disciplines and approaches to Sikh Studies. The intersections of religion and gender are here explored, based on an understanding that both are socially constructed. Far from being static, as so often presented in world religions textbooks, religious traditions are constantly in flux, responding to historical, cultural and social contexts. So too is ‘the’ Sikh tradition in terms of practices, ideologies, rituals, and notions of identity. We here conclude that ‘a’ Sikh tradition does not exist; instead, there are numerous forms thereof. In this volume, Sikhism is presented as a collection of ‘Sikh traditions’. Gender studies—in line with women’s liberation, masculine and feminist studies have long examined and have long deconstructed the patriarchy, but also move to identify other subordinate-dominant relations between individuals. Indeed, there are numerous forms of discrimination and power structures that simultaneously create a multiplicity of oppression. Intersectionality has become the basis of an increasingly systematized production of contemporary discourses on feminism and gender analysis, as is evidenced by the varied contributions in this volume.


Tradition and Innovation in English Retailing, 1700 to 1850

Tradition and Innovation in English Retailing, 1700 to 1850
Author: Ian Mitchell
Publisher: Routledge
Total Pages: 240
Release: 2016-02-24
Genre: History
ISBN: 1317008502

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Three decades of research into retailing in England from the seventeenth to nineteenth centuries has established a seemingly clear narrative: fixed shops were widespread from an early date; 'modern' methods of retailing were common from at least the early eighteenth century; shopping was a skilled activity throughout the period; and consumers were increasingly part of - and aware of being part of - a polite and fashionable culture. All of this is true, but is it the only narrative? Research has shown that markets were still important well into the nineteenth century and small scale producer-retailers co-existed with modern warehouses. Many shops were not smart. The development of modern retailing therefore was a fractured and fragmented process. This book presents a reassessment of the standard view by challenging the usefulness of concepts like 'traditional' and 'modern', examining consumption and retailing as inextricably linked aspects of a single process, and by using the idea of narrative to discuss the roles and perceptions of the various actors in this process - such as retailers, shoppers/consumers, local authorities and commentators. The book is therefore structured around some of these competing narratives in order to provide a richer and more varied picture of consumption and retailing in provincial England.